ELLI Couture

ELLI Couture

In July 2019, we presented the show of the emerging Cretan designer, Elli Lyraraki: a collection of unique shoes, created using traditional techniques of the 16th century, the uninterrupted thread of the Labyrinth and the representations of the renowned frescoes of Knossos. When investing in such show, literally an act of cultural diplomacy, we are very interested in making sure that foreign journalists fully understand our history. We had also prepared a trilingual booklet in order to explain to the foreign guests the essential information; for instance, what is the Taurokathapsia (bull leaping) and why the bull was not killed. We even provided explanations on Linear B. People, especially in Paris, have a wide experience on and knowledge of the Greek civilization, so they are able to understand what I do on a deeper level, and they enjoy it.

This is what I mean when I say that when someone is initiated in the Greek civilization they can set themselves free from the disorder of modern “values”, from the reign of competition and cruelty. The Greek antiquity is a matter of esthetic value. France honors it and that is why the first pair of shoes shown was “La Parisienne”, from the famous fresco of Knossos. It is clear that, when my intention is to present these concepts in shows, I am irrevocably identified with opinions such the ones expressed by Melina Merkouri.

Thus, I asked for the rights of the cd “Playing with Melina’’, and under the hospices of the Melina Merkouri Foundation, I had Melina’s voice speaking on our inalienable cultural trait, our civilization, heard over the music playing. It was a truly emotional moment to listen to her saying during the show at France –Amériques, before 700 journalists from all over the world: “Greece is its civilization. This is its asset and without it, we are nobody!” The finale was indeed heartwarming: Elli came, and above the sound of the applause, Melina’s voice was heard saying, “I want to see Greece to move forward”. It was an idea that impressed and stroke a chord with people. I believed that we could revive her memory through our show, so that the foreign journalists honor the Greek civilization through her voice; and that was exactly the case. I wanted her to come alive again.

Furthermore, Elli Lyraraki introduced us to her new couture collection Alagonia which includes 15 pairs of numbered handmade shoes, inspired by the Minoan civilization, the most ancient European civilization, and more particularly from the world renowned frescoes of Knossos.
Respective research for the collection was completed in collaboration with the archaeologist Ioanna Kalypso Glypti, as well as with artisans who had thoroughly studied techniques used during the 16th century, based on traditional embroidery techniques for handmade traditional Cretan garments, and the famous uninterrupted thread, which cannot be cut.

Moreover, she worked together with specialized painters who applied the batik technique of wax-resist dyeing on silk, used for the first time on shoes. In addition, silversmiths and goldsmiths created gold jewelry using precious and semi-precious gemstones that were attached on the shoes, as well as the jewelry collections accompanying the shoes.
Among the jewelry suggested, we may see the Gold Bee, which is currently hosted at the British Museum: its eyes are made from rubies for the sandals, from black brillants for the earrings and from emeralds for the necklace.
The bull is made of gold and lapis lazuli, a gemstone used by the Minoans themselves!

The collection is completed with pure silk foulards painted through the batik on silk technique.
Each pair of shoes is coupled with a handmade silk pouch, inspired by the vourgali, a typically Cretan type of textile bag, where it is embroidered, with an uninterrupted thread, the symbol of Alagonia, a small flower appearing on the Knossos frescoes.

Shop Elli’s Collectible shoes at www.ellilyraraki.com

La Parisienne (The Parisian)

Inspired by the Knossos palace frescoes, they are made of white shantung.
La Parisienne is initially hand painted and then embroidered through the old traditional technique of the twisted thread in order to revive the feeling of her wavy hair.

Taurokathapsia (bull-leaping)

The taurokathapsia was a sport of the Minoan times during which the participant would leap over a bull. Contrary to modern bullfights, there was no need to actually kill the bull, its objective merely being to demonstrate the athletes’ courage and the flexibility of their bodies.
These shoes are inspired from the respective fresco found at the Knossos palace.
The silver acrobats bear a gold coating.
At the right shoe, the leaper is in standing position, ready to perform the leap whereas at the left shoe, the leaper is already performing the leap over the hand painted bull. The shoes are entirely handmade, using turquoise shantung.

Griffin

Inspired by the partridges on the fresco of the Minoan palace, they depict the Minoan nature: the partridge, a bird commonly found in Crete, as well as the griffin, a legendary creature with the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle are related to Minoan Crete. Made of white shantung, the shoes are hand painted using the batik technique of wax-resist dyeing on silk.

Bee

The shoes are made of black shantung. The silver bees bear gold coating whereas their eyes are made of rubies. They are inspired by the Gold Bee currently hosted at the British Museum.

Labyrinth

The labyrinth is a 5,000-year old ancient symbol. The shoes are made with black shantung and decorated through the traditional 16th century embroidery technique, used for preparing the traditional Cretan garments with an uninterrupted thread. The thread returns to the point where it started without being cut, just like Ariadne’s thread.

Flying fish

Inspired by the fresco found in the neighboring island of Milos, made during the Minoan era, by Minoan artists. Flying fish are a particularly popular symbol of that time as they appear not only on frescoes but also on several artifacts and signets of that time.
Made of golden silk, the shoes are painted using the batik technique of wax-resist dyeing on silk.

Bull

Inspired by the receptacle hosted at the Knossos Museum. The silver horns bear a gold coating whereas for the face of the bull a lapis-lazuli semi-precious stone is used, which was also used by the Minoans themselves for their jewelry. The shoes are made by red shantung, in the hue used by the Minoans.

Bull

The skirt of the Minoan lady

This pair of shoes are inspired by the colorful, ruffled skirts of the Minoan ladies as they appear on the female statuettes hosted at the Knossos Museum.
The fashion sense of that time was truly exceptional and pioneering, especially when we consider the much simpler tunics and chlamydes worn by Ancient Greeks later on.
The shoes are made by yellow shantung with the use of hand painted strips which are hand-stitched in order to be joined together into replicating the ruffles of that time.

The Prince of Lillies

Inspired by the so-called “Prince of Lillies” fresco at the Knossos palace.
Made of golden silk, the shoes are painted using the batik technique of wax-resist dyeing on silk.

The Prince of Lillies

Vine leaves or grapes

The shoes are inspired by the vast Cretan vineyards. Through the ages, olive oil and wine had been the only exportable Cretan products.
Τhey are made with black silky velvet and embroidered with a golden thread whereas the grapes are 3D. The beads are attached with a golden thread in order to indicate how precious grapes were for the people of Crete throughout their history.

Ladies of the Minoan court

Inspired by the respective fresco of the Minoan palace, the shoes are made with blue shantung, just like the fresco background. The ladies’ hair is embroidered with the traditional technique used for the Cretan garments, using an uninterrupted thread whereas by using golden thread the emphasis lies on the gold jewelry that Minoan ladies used then to adorn their hair.

Ladies of the Minoan court

Bull and olive tree
Hand painted shoes, made from white shantung and inspired from the fresco found at the northern entrance of Knossos palace.

Lilies

Inspired by the fresco found at the Hall of Lilies, at Knossos palace.
Made of golden silk, the shoes are painted using the batik technique of wax-resist dyeing on silk.

Blue monkeys

Inspired by the fresco found at the House of Frescoes, at Knossos palace.
Made of golden silk, the shoes are painted using the batik technique of wax-resist dyeing on silk.

Blue monkeys

Labyrinth

Made of gray shantung, the pair is inspired by a coin hosted at the Museum of Knossos.
Fabricated through traditional 16thcentury techniques used by typical female embroiderers who were making the traditional Cretan garments.

The specificity of this type of embroidery is that it is made with an uninterrupted thread which returns to the point where it started without being cut, just like Ariadne’s thread.
This design also includes the symbols for man and woman, the beginning and the end, as they are depicted in Linear B on jars dating from that time